Use an 8mm socket on a quarter-inch drive ratchet to loosen the bolts. Step 10: It is especially handy to use a swivel socket to remove the intake boot bolts because other components here make for tight quarters.Įach reed cage assembly is secured to the crankcase with six bolts.
The fuel rail that is directly above the throttle body will not need to be removed from its mount on the engine. Carefully push the arm off of the assembly, tip the assembly up and out of the way and hang it with a bungee cord or zip tie for full access to the reed cage assembly. With the clamps loose, carefully pull the throttle body assembly a short distance away from the engine and locate the oil pump arm – it’s connected to the assembly between the magneto and PTO throttle body. Use a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps that secure the throttle bodies to the intake boots on the crankcase. Step 9: The oil pump arm has a friction-fit plastic fitting that attaches to the throttle body assembly. With the clamps loosened, remove the air silencer to reveal the throttle bodies. 2 Phillips screwdriver to loosen the clamps that secure the intake silencer to the throttle bodies. Unhook the clips and remove the upper box from the chassis. Step 8: A screwdriver that is at least 12 inches long makes it easier to loosen the clamps that hold the air silencer on the throttle body assembly.įour retainer clips secure the upper airbox to the main air silencer. Tip the intake tube out of the airbox and carefully disconnect the wires from the temperature/air pressure sensor that’s attached to the intake tube. This is the bottom part, called the air silencer. Step 7: Three separate parts stack up to make the air silencer assembly. Be sure to note each fuel line’s attachment point – supply and return – before disconnecting. Remove the bolt that attaches the fuel filter bracket to the airbox, unhook the two fuel lines from the fuel pump and unplug the wire connection from the fuel pump. Buy a set at an auto parts store for about $10. Step 6: Fittings for the fuel pump on the 2014 600 Rush Pro-R we used for this story did not require a special fuel-line disconnect tool, but it is required for earlier models. Twist off the four nuts that fasten the clutch guard to the chassis, remove the clutch guard and set it aside. Unplug the wire harness from the ECU and voltage regulator, but leave the ECU and regulator bolted to the clutch guard. Step 5: The voltage regulator (on left, under oil tank) and ECU do not need to be separated from the clutch guard.
Reposition the oil tank out of the way and secure it with a bungee cord or zip tie.
Unhook the two rubber straps that hold the oil tank to the clutch guard and remove the two bolts that attach the oil tank to the engine control unit (ECU). Step 4: Make sure the cap is tight before tipping the oil tank out of the way.
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